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Greetings Fellow Eaters,
What is a cook without their kitchen? I found
out this month when my scullery seemingly rebelled
against me. The cook top fizzled (in the middle of
canning 25 pounds of tomatoes and on the eve of a
dinner party, of course), the floor boards buckled,
and the sink decided it would rather not drain (note
to parents of creative kids: pipes and pipe
cleaners do not mix). But not to fret. It takes
much more than that to keep me from getting my cook on.
I have never had a fancy, grown-up kitchen. When I
lived in Manhattan I had a gas range but it was one
of those Barbie-sized affairs easily spanned by a
medium sauté pan. The apartment before that (my
first) was a basement in Queens—not pretty. My
current house has electric burners (gasp!). Through
this kitchen history I have leafed through
architectural glossies lustfully gawking at the
pages of AGAs and Vikings as if I was flipping
through some sort of kinky appliance porn mag.
Needing to replace my burned out cook top dropped me
straight down into the center of dreamland—the
kitchen appliance and design center. I entered that
store, not like a kid in a candy store, but more
like a mutt at the dog-run— sniffing, wagging, so
excited I want to jump on top of this thing and...
Sealed burners, griddle surfaces, indoor grills, wok
inserts—yes, yes, yes, baby. BTU me, BTU me, BTU
me. “Can I help you ma’am?” The voice of the
salesperson brought me back to reality and to the
back of the store where the electric coil
burners—the only measly cook top that my house has
the wiring and exhaust system (that would be the
window) to handle. I ordered it with the same
enthusiasm one might have about asking your cousin
to go to the prom with you—again. I slumped home to
face cooking dinner without a kitchen.
Now I enjoy a good pizza night, but I can only take
so many take-out events before I start to get cranky
for my cook. I went out and got myself a two-burner
hot plate to handle some basics—scrambled eggs,
grilled cheese. I dusted off my turkey fryer and
got down to some good old outdoor cooking, Cajun
style. I learned that, with just the right amount
of charcoal and a thick bottomed pan a Weber kettle
grill can generate a good deal of sizzle.
Do I still want the bells and whistles of a tricked
out kitchen? You bet. But do I need that stuff to
wrangle up a meal? No. Sure, there have been some
frustrating moments this month; cooking meals one
dish at a time has delayed more than a few dinners;
there is no searing on a hot plate; simmer and boil
are not the same thing—particularly when it comes to
pasta. But there have been some highlights, too;
almost any vegetable tastes great when roasted—even
kale; cooking outside, even in the rain, can be
pretty fun; with few exceptions, food from the
farmers’ market tastes good no matter what you to
it. One day I’ll have my dream kitchen. But for
now all I need is impeccably fresh food, a little
heat and an appetite.
Keep it Real, Sherri
In the Bag
A Moveable Feast
In honor of back to school, a little focus on “brown
bagging it.” The term doesn’t exactly conjure up
visions of culinary delight. But whether it’s you or
your kid that needs to pack a sack, a few of these
tricks will make your midday repast a feast.
Kids give major points for novelty, so don’t be
afraid to be creative. Breakfast for lunch,
different shapes, even a funny name can be all it
takes to get kids out of the PB & J rut. One thing
to keep in mind; keep cold foods cold and hot foods
hot by using cold packs and thermoses for
temperature control. We don’t want to rack up any
more sick days than we have to.
Pancakes for lunch
You can capitalize on kids’ love of the cakes to
squeeze in some covert fruits and vegetables. You
can griddle these up on the weekend and pop them
into the freezer—layered in between sheets of wax
paper—for a quick addition to the lunch box
mid-week. Just add a sprinkle of berries, toss in
some corn kernels, grate in some cheese or even add
a handful of shredded carrot to your favorite
batter. Forgo the syrup and pack them with a small
container of flavored yogurt (add 1 tsp of preserves
to plain yogurt) for dipping. (Note: I send these
pancakes cold and my kids never seem to mind.)
A hummus among us
Give a kid something to dip it in and many of them
will eat almost anything. Hummus, which is made
from chickpeas, is easy to find in the market or
make by whirring a drained and rinsed can of the
beans, a little garlic, lemon juice and olive oil in
a blender. To switch things up a bit, use white or
black beans instead of the chickpeas or toss in a
few re-hydrated sun-dried tomatoes, a dollop of
tahini, a handful of pignoli nuts or washed, fresh
herbs. Send along cleaned and sliced vegetables or
pita slices for dipping.
(Sort of) Sushi
No, you don’t have to apprentice in Japan to whip up
this kid-friendly dish. Lay a warmed tortilla flat,
smear it with a tasty spread (any of the above
listed bean spreads, a mashed avocado, mild salsa),
sprinkle it with chopped fresh or cooked vegetables,
diced meats or cheeses, beans or lentils or any
combination the three, then roll up pin-wheel style.
Moisten edge with a few drops of water and rest,
seam side down for 5-10 minutes to seal. Slice into
2 inch sections and arrange in a reusable plastic
container, cut side up. Garnish with sesame seeds
if you like.
Soup it up!
Ladle hot soup or chili into a thermos to shake of
the chill for older kids. For the little kids or
just the soup-shy, try this tip. Puree some fruit
in a blender (melons and berries when they are in
season, pears and apples in the fall), add water to
thin, garnish with a small dice of the whole fruit
or a few raisins, serve with a spoon and dig
in—soups on.
Nut switch
Whether your kid is allergic, you’re keeping to
school policy, or you’re just trying to get out of a
rut, many of us are looking to avoid peanut butter
these days. If your school allows it, consider
switching to alternative nut butters such as cashew
or almond. (Check with your doctor first if you are
feeding an allergy sufferer.)
Cheese twist
Cheese sandwiches are a lunchtime standby,
particularly for vegetarian tykes. Add a little
twist with these combinations: cheddar and chutney
on whole grain; cheddar, apple butter and thinly
sliced apples on pumpernickel; mozzarella, tomato
and pesto on Italian bread. (Always pack cheese
sandwiches with an ice pack to keep the fromage fresh.)
Oodles of noodles
Kids are pasta freaks and I use it to my advantage
whenever I can; it’s an easy way to work different
kinds of grains into their diets. Cruise the ethnic
aisle of your grocery for rice noodles and buckwheat
soba (which, despite the name are not made from
wheat like the majority of pastas available). Cook
per package directions, rinse under cold water, toss
with a little sesame oil and a splash of soy sauce
and use as a bed for fresh or cooked vegetables,
chopped meats or beans.
Red fish, blue fish
Tuna fish used to be a brown bag staple. Mercury
contamination rightfully steers many of us clear.
But here’s a good substitute—wild canned salmon.
Use it like you would tuna and you will get that
fish fix, plus hefty quantities of Omega 3 fatty
acids (the good fat).
Three Easy Pestos
I’ve still got basil at my farmers’ market, but not
for long. I’m making up some pestos that will bring
that fresh flavor when the big chill sets in.
Freeze these in ice cube trays then transfer to a
plastic bag when solid.
Basic pesto recipe
- 1cup of olive oil
- 1 clove of garlic
- 1 cup of grated parmesan
- 1/4 cup pignoli nuts
- 2 cups of basil, somewhat packed
- salt and pepper
Pour oil into a blender, toss in garlic and process
until garlic is minced. Add cheese and nuts and
process until smooth. Add basil and process again.
Season with salt and pepper.
Sundried tomato pesto
Use the above recipe, substitute walnuts for the
pignoli and 1/2 cup re-hydrated sun-dried tomatoes
for the basil.
Mediterranean pesto
Use the above recipe, substitute 1/2 cup crumbled
feta for the parmesan and a combination of fresh
dill and parsley for the basil.
Uses for pesto cubes:
Toss them into soups, stir them into hot pastas and
rice (fabulous addition to couscous), melt them on
top of baked chicken, roasts or grilled steaks,
slather defrosted ones on sandwiches, blend one or
two with 1/4 cup oil and 2 tablespoons vinegar for a
fabulous dressing for salads, cooked or canned
beans, and cold pasta.
Upcoming appearances
Hitting the high seas
At the end of October I'll be sailing away on a
Crystal Cruises voyage--touring through the
Northeast and Canada to celebrate food, food, food.
Bon Voyage!
In next month's Sustainable Solutions
Say Cheese!
A tribute to fine American fromage.
and more....
The Real Food Revival:
Aisle by Aisle, Morsel by Morsel
Buy the book! The Real Food Revival is for every
eater who wants to enjoy sustainably raised foods.
Whether your new to the real food movement or and
old pro this book is full of tips and tricks for
reclaiming the food chain.
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