Greetings Fellow Eaters,
"Blessed are the Cheesemakers." I was reminded of
this line from the film Monty Python's Life of
Brian
this past holiday season as I was visiting my
husband's family in the U.K. As is the case with
all Vinton gatherings, Python was running in the
background somewhere-either on the telly or as a
thread of inside jokes through many of our
conversations. But even more deliciously this year,
it was a phrase we laughingly uttered after most
meals as we turned to the cheese course-wonderful
selection of English cheeses, some sourced just
miles from our dinner table.
The cheese plate was one of the best treats of
the holiday season. Not only was it delicious, but
there is no better way to enjoy a place than
to eat it. All puns about "getting a taste of local
culture" aside, cheeses, like wine and other foods
grown in harmony with their local environment,
reflect a unique terroir-taste characteristics
specific to the place of production.
"American cheese," the processed orange melter that
tops scoops of diner tuna and gets pressed between
kiddie-sized slices of wonder bread may not rank
high on the list of fine fromage. But the new wave
of cheesemakers in America is changing that image
and more through their dedication to traditional,
artisan practices, sustainable farming, and darn
delicious products. In the process these
cheesemakers are
preserving farmland, saving family dairy operations
and protecting the culture of many rural enclaves by
creating a market for high quality milk from
pasture-based herds of milk bearing animals.
Blessed indeed!
Keep it Real, Sherri
Finding Fromage
Some great places for landing the good stuff
The best way to discover fantastic domestic cheeses
is to visit your local monger and have a taste.
Here are a few in NYC that offer a fabulous selection:
Saxelby Cheesemongers
This shop is dedicated to domestic cheeses, so you
are bound to find something
yummy and local there. And I can't say enough good
stuff about this place and its owner, Anne Saxelby.
She's worked on dairies in the States and in Europe
and it
shows. This lady really knows her stuff-and she's
super friendly, too!
Murray's Cheese
A New York City landmark, Murray's is a great
destination for a fantastic wedge, wheel or button.
Stop by and give it a try or order online.
Artisanal
A relative newcomer to the New York cheese scene,
Artisanal sells cheese over the counter, over the
internet and in a multitude of preparations in their
cheese-centric restaurant. Fondue anyone???
Tips for Buying Terrific Cheese
Use these suggestions to join the stinky revolution!
Know Your Monger
Cheese that is mishandled can quickly deteriorate in
quality. Buy from a reputable monger or directly
from the producer, if possible.
Eye the Turnover
If you have to buy from a supermarket dairy case
look for one with good turnover. I'd rather pick
from a few high-grade cheeses that are restocked
regularly than a huge display of varieties that have
spent a long time on the shelf.
Chill Out
Give your cheese time to come to room temperature
before you enjoy it. Cut only the amount you plan
to eat and let it rest out of the fridge while you
have dinner to experience optimum taste and texture.
Soft, Hard and Blue
Want to put together a cheese plate but don't know
where to start? Try one soft cheese, one hard or
semi-hard and one blue cheese for a range of flavors
and textures.
Buy Big
If the rule of three feels too fussy or the
selections are limited it's a perfectly fine and fun
option to serve just one cheese. A large hunk of
cheddar or a wheel of something soft and oozy is a
tasty and convivial way to finish up a meal. Round
out the plate with some sweet and savory
accompaniments: chutney and pickles are great with
cheddar, a drizzle of straight-from-the-comb honey
over a wedge of salty blue is sheer bliss.
Eat it All Up!
A good cheese is a terrible thing to waste. With
this recipe, you won't have to. You can toss in any
kind of cheese you have on hand, but keep in mind
that blue cheese will dominate if you use it.
Fromage Fort
- 1lb assorted cheese bits (hard rinds removed),
hard cheeses grated, softer ones cut into 1 inch
pieces and all brought to room temperature
- 1/2 cup white wine
- 2 tablespoons parsley or other fresh herb
(optional)
- 1 clove garlic, mashed to a paste
- 2 tablespoons butter at room temperature
- 1 teaspoon mustard (optional)
- 1/4 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
Put all in a food process and blend until smooth.
Add a few dribbles more wine if necessary to blend.
Serve on crackers or toasted baguette. Can be
stored in a crock in the refrigerator for about one
week.
Ask SS
Welcome to the new Sustainable Solutions Q/A
Thank you to everyone who submitted questions last
month. Confused by a label? Don't know what to do
with that obscure but irresistible find from the
farmers' market? Drop me a line at
sherri@sherribrooksvinton.com with anything that's
on your mind.
Dear SS, I saw some cheese recently that was labeled "raw milk." How can that be? I thought that stuff
was illegal (and kind of gross). Signed, Doubtful
of Dairy
Dear Doubtful,
Thank you for writing. I understand your
concern-the USDA has done a good job of convincing
eaters that our food supply needs to be sanitized to
within an inch of its life to be wholesome (see last
month's Sustainable Solutions for a chat about
that!). But let me tell you this, raw milk cheese
isn't only not gross-it's delicious!
An-—hold onto
your hat-chances are you've been eating it all
along. Some of the most popular cheeses, such as
Parmigiana
Reggiana and Emmental, are made from raw milk and are
tastier because of it.
Eaters have been enjoying raw milk cheeses since we
began making cheese. In the hands of a
knowledgeable cheesemaker there's nothing to fear.
In fact, the natural enzymes in raw milk not only
contribute to the character and flavor of the cheese
they are also said to prevent contamination by rogue
pathogens. In the United States, raw milk cheeses
are aged for sixty days before they can be sold so
you won't find young raw milk cheeses such as the
Camemberts and Bries that you might come across in
Europe. But any raw milk cheese is a treat and
certainly nothing to be afraid of. Enjoy!
Appearances
Stop by and join the Real Food Revival!
I have the good fortune to be hosting the second
session of Slow U, "New World Cheese, Old World
Wine," along with Anne Saxelby of Saxelby
Cheesemongers and Greg Moore of Moore
Brothers Wine Company. At Moore Brothers Wine
Company, 33 East 20th Street, Thursday, February 1,
6pm-8pm. Tickets, available at Brown Paper
Tickets, include lecture and wine and cheese
tastings $20 Slow Food members, $25 non-members.
Visit Slow Food
NYC for more information about Slow U, our
ongoing educational lecture series.
The Real Food Revival:
Aisle by Aisle, Morsel by Morsel
Buy the book! The Real Food Revival is for every
eater who wants to enjoy sustainably raised foods.
Whether you're new to the real food movement or an
old pro this book is full of tips and tricks for
reclaiming the food chain.
