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Greetings Fellow Eaters,
My farmers' market has gone dark for the season.
Thanksgiving week was the last chance to chat with
growers and load up on local goodies. As the
cut-off approached I started to panic. The idea of
buying my food in the Mega Mart—from distant,
faceless points of origin—was giving me the willies.
Faced with the faded flavors of wilting imports, my
taste buds would surely go into withdrawal. I felt
like a fresh food addict who would be denied her fix.
I shared my grief with one of my local farmers,
Alexis Gazy. “What am I going to eat until Spring?”
I asked her. She laughed at me and we joked about
the benefits of hibernation. I thought that was
that, but apparently quite a few of her market
regulars were squirming under the prospect of
setting holiday tables with long distance produce.
A few weeks after our talk Alexis gave me the good
news—due to popular demand she and her husband, Ed,
were going to do a winter CSA (Community Sponsored
Agriculture) program. Paid in advance, members of
the CSA get weekly shares of the cold weather
produce that is still coming off the field (our out
of the ground more specifically—root veg being the
better part of the bargain) and delicious selections
from the season-extending greenhouse. As an added
bonus, as if we needed it, Alexis offered to deliver
these shares to our front doors. She said they
would keep it going until the crops stop coming.
Now that’s a gift that keeps on giving.
Keep it Real, Sherri
Fresh After the Frost
Eating local when the mercury drops
Eaters’ demand for locally produced food is
encouraging farmers to find sustainable ways to
extend their growing season. Agricultural pioneers,
such as Eliot Coleman, use minimally heated
greenhouses to grow food year-round. Think it can’t
be done where you live? Eliot and his partner,
Barbara Damrosch, run their Four Season Farm
in Maine.
It’s not uncommon for them to have to shovel snow off
of the cold frames so that they can harvest what’s
growing inside. Here are some ways you can support
your local growers all year long:
- Partner with your grower—let them know that you
would eat it if they would grow it. A guaranteed
market may be all they need to make the leap to
extending their season or even building a root
cellar so they can supply their community into the
winter. The partnership provides an additional
revenue stream for growers and great, local flavor
for eaters.
- Buy local dairy. Pasture-based dairies may have
fresh milk on hand, depending on how they winter
over their animals. They may also have cheese made
from last season’s milk. Give them a call and see if
they might be able to stock you up with some creamy
delights.
- Depending on where you live, you might have
access to a year-round market. We do in New York
and I’ll be paying them some visits when my farmer’s
supply runs out. Check with your state’s
department of agriculture to see if you have a
four-season market in your area.
- Contact growers from your local market. They
may have cold storage items such as potatoes,
apples, and garlic that they would be happy to pass
along. Growers who raise pasture-based meats often
have a frozen supply available.
- Check with your grocery store manager. They may
be carrying some cold-storage crops—like apples and
pears—from local growers. Opt for those over
imports.
Don’t Cover it Up, Clean it Up
An action plan for reducing food-borne illness
You may have read the recent headlines about
outbreaks of contamination in our food supply.
These reports are shocking to eaters, but they are
not news to the agencies involved. The Center for
Disease Control estimates that such contamination
causes 76 million illnesses, 325,000
hospitalizations, and 5,000 deaths in the United
States each year. The food industry talks about
increasing the number of inspections, stepping up
the level of testing and employing more technology,
such as irradiating food, as remedies for
contamination. But these are basically only methods
for identifying and sterilizing food that has
already been tainted. The “cook thoroughly” sticker
that you see on most packaged meat is an example of
the industry’s approach to dealing with food borne
bacteria. Rather than making meat less toxic to
begin with, the industry would have eaters just cook
the contamination out of it.
I am not saying that we should do away with good
practices in the kitchen. Nor am I suggesting that
a sterile food system is the goal here or even a
possibility—unless we want to dine on pristine
vitamin pellets some level of bacteria load is and
always will be a part of eating from the earth. But
the kind and quantity of food borne illness we are
seeing is NOT a natural bi-product of agriculture.
It is not some sort of margin for error that should
be factored into the food production equation. In
just the last few months we have seen the recall of
tainted spinach, carrot juice, ground beef, and
lettuce and an unidentified source of contamination
that sickened and killed customers at Taco Bell.
This extent of contamination is the consequence of
having an over-concentrated, heavily consolidated
food production system and a government that is more
than happy to turn a blind eye to it all.
The changes necessary to clean up our food supply
are not rocket science. Would they require sweeping
changes in the way our food is produced? Yes.
Would they impact the bottom line of corporate
agribusiness? You bet. But they would also save
lives and make our food supply more delicious in the
process. That's change I'll vote for. But you
don't have to wait. You can use most of these tips
yourself to limit your exposure to toxic pathogens:
- No more corn-fed beef. Corn acidifies the
animal’s stomach making it a veritable petri-dish
for the particularly virulent strain of E. coli—E.
coli 0157:H7—that can be deadly when ingested by
humans. Switching animals to their natural
grass-based diet drastically reduces, and often
eliminates, these acid tolerant organisms from their
system.
- Slow down. Over the past twenty years the speed
of meat processing has sky rocketed. Plants that
used to slaughter 175 cattle an hour now process
about 400 per hour. This fast pace overstresses
workers who cannot take the care necessary to
prevent contamination.
- Dry chickens. Look for poultry that is “air
chilled.” These birds have not been run through the
industry standard dunk tank, notorious for its
bacterial load, to chill them quickly during
processing.
- No cannibalism. Animals contract Mad Cow
disease when they eat tissue from animals infected
with the disease. Stop the practice of feeding
vegetarian ruminants such as cows processed animal
products—things like blood meal and chicken litter
which contains restaurant scraps—and the vector for
Mad Cow transmission will be eliminated.
- Leave it on. Pre-cut lettuces, whittled
carrots, and shredded slaw may shave a few minutes
off of prep time but removing the food’s natural
barriers—the outer leaves, peels and skins—makes it
more vulnerable to contamination. Leave Mother
Nature’s “shrink wrap” in tact until you’re ready to
make your dish.
- Keep produce whole until it reaches the kitchen.
Each of the many steps involved in processing
pre-cut produce creates another opportunity for the
food to become compromised by food borne pathogens.
Reduce your exposure to bacteria by selecting only
whole fruits and vegetables.
- Think outside the bag. Those bags of processed
produce may look fresh but those veggies have been
cooped up in what is essentially a hot house for
days, maybe even weeks. Pass on that petri
dish.
- Shorten the distance between you and the grower.
The long line of the conveyor belt—which starts in
the field and snakes to the cooling truck, through
the washers and dryers, around the processing
facilities, into cooling chambers and packing
houses, onto shipping trucks, into the back of the
central distribution center, onto the regional
delivery truck, onto the loading dock (for how long
during the stock boys lunch break?) and to a display
shelf near you—well you get the point, how can
anything remain “fresh” after a journey like
that?
- Support local, family farms. A decentralized
food system limits the impact of any incidence of
contamination—accidental or intentional.
- I’ll say it again. Support local, family farms.
If they’re feeding it to their family, you can feed
it to yours, too.
Upcoming Appearances
Slow U returns! Mark your calendars for February
1st. Moore Brothers Wine Company will be hosting
Slow Food NYC's 2nd program in our educational
lecture series. This one is all about the "stinky
revolution"--the rebirth of artisanal cheesemaking
in the U.S. We have the good fortune to be joined
this time by Anne Saxelby, of Saxelby Cheesemongers
in NYC. More info in next month's newsletter or
visit SFNYC's website for details.
p.s.--I was mortified to discover that I had the
wrong URL for Moore Brothers last month. Please
visit the correct one, below. Better yet, stop by
the shop for a sip or a case. 'Tis the season!
In Next Month's Sustainable Solutions
The Real Deal, a new Q/A section
If you have questions about enjoying more
sustainably raised, delicious food, shout it out.
I'll be posting a new Q/A section next month.
The Real Food Revival:
Aisle by Aisle, Morsel by Morsel
Buy the book! The Real Food Revival is for every
eater who wants to enjoy sustainably raised foods.
Whether you're new to the real food movement or an
old pro this book is full of tips and tricks for
reclaiming the food chain.
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