Sustainable Solutions
Sustainable Solutions
February 2008
 
 

sherri photo

Greetings Fellow Eaters,

It's almost Spring. We're coming down the home stretch. The days are a little longer, the sunlight's a bit stronger. But these last few weeks of winter meals--the gap between ferreted Fall stash and tender Spring sprouts--can be the most trying for local eating.

In this month's Sustainable Solutions, one of my favorite year-round ingredients--beans. I've found some that are not only tasty and versitile but have enough beauty and personality to make them the belle of the ball. So dig in and...


Keep it Real,
Sherri

Magical Beans
Ten pounds of dazzling, colorful, heirloom beans--that's what I'm looking at right now. They are the spoils of a recent visit to Tucson, Arizona where I had the very good fortune to visit Native Seeds/SEARCH, an organization that protects and promotes the agricultural diversity of the Southwest and Northern Mexico.

Native Seeds/SEARCH operates a seed bank of over two thousand plant varieties, many of them the traditional foods, fibers and dyes of Native American tribes. It's important work. These heirloom beans offer a living history of agriculture in our country and provide a treasure of genetic diversity for future growers and eaters.

The work is also delicious. Visit the NSS retail shop and you won't just come away with packets of things to grow, you'll leave with sacks of goodies to eat. That's because NSS promotes agricultural diversity not only by saving seeds but by growing them.

Claire, my field-guide through the store, told me the histories and uses of the beans, peppers, seeds, meals, pods and herbs that NSS carries with the pride of someone passing along family folklore. Tiny, brown, Tepary Beans; gorgeous Four Corner Gold Beans, mottled burgundy and cream-colored Christmas Lima Beans--they not only look different but they all have distinct flavors, uses, and cooking requirements. Most importantly, each variety has its own set of strengths and weaknesses and performs differently in the field--some need a good water supply, others are extremely drought tolerant, some have high pest resistance.

Planting a number of different varieties is an important aspect of sustainable agriculture. It's like taking out an insurance policy on the crop. Whatever the conditions--rain, drought, blight--the grower might loose one variety but others would survive. It's a safeguard against crop failure that can be traced back to ancient civilizations and still makes good growing sense today.

Eating heirloom beans is an easy and tasty way to support sustainable agriculture in the fourth season. And you don't need to lug them in your carry-on (or explain to security why you are doing so). Here are a few links for sourcing great beans and some recipes to enjoy.

Recipes
Sloppy Janes
Beans are a flavorful way to stretch your proteins. Here I add them to a classic Sloppy Joe recipe, turning a small amount of meat into a satisfying, economical dish.

  • 1 pound grass-fed ground beef
  • 1 onion, finely chopped
  • 2 cloves of garlic, minced
  • 1 tablespoon cumin
  • 1 tablespoon coriander
  • 1 quart home-canned tomatoes or1 can whole peeled tomatoes, crushed by hand
  • 1-2 cups cooked beans of your choice
  • 1 tablespoon mustard
  • salt and pepper
  • 8 soft rolls
  • Saute beef in a medium skillet over medium-high heat until it begins to brown, about 10 minutes. Add onions and saute until translucent, about 3-5 minutes. Add garlic and spices and heat until fragrant, about a minute. Add tomatoes and simmer until thickened, about 10 minutes. Add beans and mustard and simmer five minutes more. Season with salt and pepper to taste. Spoon onto rolls and serve. Serves 6-8.

    Heirloom Bean Backdrop
    A winter squash, a few turnips--this time of year the larder can be running pretty low. Here's a quick recipe that turns a few vegetables into a terrific meal. You can roast some fresh, as I've done here, or use whatever leftovers you have in the fridge instead.

  • 1/2 pound Heirloom Beans
  • 1/2 cup plus 2 tablespoons olive oil
  • 2 pounds assorted vegetables (parsnips, winter squash, carrots, celery root), peeled and cut into 2 inch chunks
  • 2 tablespoons red wine or balsamic vinegar
  • 1 tablespoon mustard
  • salt and pepper
  • 1 small onion or shallot, finely diced
  • Soak bean overnight in a double volume of water. Drain. Put beans in a medium saucepan, cover with fresh water by two inches and bring to a simmer. Cook until tender, about one hour. Drain.

    Meanwhile, preheat oven to 400. Toss vegetables with 2 tablespoons of oil and a sprinkle with salt and pepper. Roast on a cookie sheet until edges brown and vegetables are soft, about 25 minutes.

    In a large bowl, whisk vinegar, mustard and a pinch of salt and pepper. Whisk in 1/2 cup oil in a slow stream to make a vinaigrette. Add beans, roasted vegetables, and onion or shallot and toss to combine. Serves 6-8

    Appearances
    3.27 Tiffin Restaurant
    Come to this combination lecture and lunch. We'll talk about real food and enjoy a tasty locally-sourced meal prepared by chef Rachel Kahnna.

    4.27 Green Edge Collaborative
    Come on out for a chat about Sustainability and hear about the great work GreenEdge is doing.

    5.3-5.4 Maharishi University of Management's
    MUM's annual Eco Fair is all about the local eating movement. I'm thrilled to be a part of it.

    Summer 08
    I'll be the Chef in Residence this season at the Litchfield Market, dates TBD

    The Real Food Revival:
    Aisle by Aisle, Morsel by Morsel
    book Buy the book! The Real Food Revival is for every eater who wants to enjoy sustainably raised foods. Whether you're new to the real food movement or an old pro this book is full of tips and tricks for reclaiming the food chain.

    Copyright, Sherri Brooks Vinton, 2008 Sustainable Solutions may be reproduced in whole or in part by contacting sherri@sherribrooksvinton.com


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    Sherri Brooks Vinton | 16 james street | norwalk | CT | 06850